The following clothing ad arrived via email to J. Crew’s mailing list under the subject heading “All Cardigans Are Not Created Equal” on the eve of the presidential inauguration. The following is a close reading of the advertisement below which was inspired by a discussion between us, “On Art, On Politics” editors Sam Poynter and Maisie.
A paraphrase reads something like this: All men may be created equal but cardigans aren’t. Come to get better cardigans at J. Crew.” Cryptically, it uses connectedly the excitement about the incoming administration as an example of a brand rather than as a fundamental human law. The equation, as we see it, runs like this [natural right] = [brand] or ["natural right"]. The important question is this, what is “=”. Many cultural critics and historians understand that the “is”, in advertising and media generally, deploys the language of representation in order to transmit information, encoded in a logic of identity formation and popular aesthetics, to consumers. The “is” of categorical identity (i.e. an apple is an apple “a=a” or an air plane is a flying machine, “a=f”), in this context, is always in competition with the “is” of representation (all the world is a stage, “for all x, x=s” and Dick Cheney is an asshole, “d=a” which are both metaphors, actually).
Given this reading of the ad, we would like to ask: has Obama opened all questions of his legitimacy to the “is” of representation? Has he won an election based upon representation only? Is such a victory dangerous? Loved representations/images are constantly susceptible to their opposite number, hate. That is because they affect us and our aesthetic taste. Will the J. Crew and those like them initiate a good intentioned but ultimately deleterious slippery slope of representation? Is this just desperation from business in an economic crisis? Does the fact of desperation negate the idea that the ad in question seems to represent a problematic and unstable racial climate?
The project of protecting natural rights has been a difficult project for mankind since well before Hobbes and the formal study of political science. In fact, natural rights has a very distinct place in this country as it has materialized in a host of substantive constitutional thought, the right of equal protection, etc. We would not have expected this ad when we were growing up in as much as it seems, in a sense, to make fun of, by acquiring, the notion of natural rights in order to sell cardigans. Given the subject’s long and relatively recent history, in no other country could the trivialization of natural rights carry the potential for such a bitter blowback and, also, in no other historical moment should such a comparison seem more inappropriate.
Because we would normally expect a blow back, this ad is something of a fever gauge for the current state of the American temperament towards race. We see this ad in a context of great celebration, of liberation and wonder. However, if this ad can go unquestioned and is in fact positively perceived by those who have received it in their email on the day before the celebrated inauguration, what reason is there to celebrate? What great “breakthrough” is being celebrated by Americans and our American media? What great force has been conquered as a result of Barrack Obama’s election? Is it a fact that, at this moment, President-elect Obama’s incredible election had nothing to do with race? Is it a fact that people of color have voted for Obama for political reasons that transcend the politics of race?
We assume in the reading of the J. Crew ad that the ad is not so much about color but about the current overall racial climate in America. This climate, we assume, is one in which spots of racial intolerance still prevail but are considered to be a localized problem and often dispelled in the public sphere as specific instances of “ignorance” or “backwardness” rather than being understood and treated as a national problem. Referring to the work of Dr. David Eng from the University of Pennsylvania Asian Studies Department and Psychoanalyst Shinhee Han, writing about the phenomenon of Racial Melancholia, we live in an age of race management where racism is more subtle, where divisions persist as administrative nuances, sorting, and dogma about test scores. In places, overt racism persists, though in most places, racism is subtle.
What the J. Crew ad does, we suppose, is rhetorically correlate the notion of equal protection under the law with a dilemma of things you want to buy. We don’t think it works to unstable the notion that “all men are created equal” in any way that would make us think that all men aren’t in fact created so. We think it merely lightens the entire question of equality and equal protection by removing it to the discourse of the commodity and telling us that we are post-race and post-natural rights. Representation has its own language. It makes us think about similar statements when we say “all cardigans are created equal.”
In a sense, the ad:
1. Demonstrates a blasé about race politics by making an allusion in what might at any other time in history be considered bad taste.
2. By showing that it can acquire the phrase in “good taste” to sell cardigans, it demonstrates the general and current sentiment among people who wear J. Crew, namely, that equality is more of a brand than it is a looming and unfinished project.
The ad acquires equality the way that postmodernist aesthetics, according to Fredric Jameson, acquire modern aesthetics. The ad essentially short circuits the project of equality by capitalizing on the contemporary aesthetic of “equality.” “Yes we can” is trademark and now a rather hollow phrase associated problematically with two different movements, that is, with two movements which each support the same candidate to accomplish a very different political end. We thus suggest that these political ends are contrary counter-productive to each other.
The stylized aesthetic perspective of something is what Jameson calls “capture.” He also relates this to cultural short hand. For instance, the greatest capture device for Jameson is the TV which sometimes employs montage and pastiche, both aesthetically and culturally rooted methods of accessing history and meaning, in order to communicate otherwise insensible points to viewers.
This stylization of an object or concept makes a thing comprehensible by rendering it in a cultural short hand, by essentially rendering it static. Marx described the modern age: “All that is solid, melts into air.” We think that this description fits the current example. Though the new stylized object or concept suggests that the thing captured is terminal or static, like a painting or a photograph, the actual thing captured is still more complex in its material or living state. Capture also logically resembles the Freudian or Kleinian illusion of introjection; incorporation. This illusion can cause unintended side effects as it is only the simulation of closure or finality, not the actual conclusion of race politics, in the current example.
It is a great tragedy to “capture” race before race is over. In doing so, we are in danger of initiating a widespread American psychosis. What should happen when the image captured and celebrated does not match the reality that the image purports to capture? This ad, we believe, is really representative of the increasingly dangerous and delicate time we live in. The young white middle-class voter came at a cost it seems. How will the other half of Obama’s supporters pay for his election?
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FOCUS GROUP
In order to deepen our opinion about the dangers of “captured” equality we created a small focus group to discuss this topic. There were five group members all together.
Demographics
Age group: 25-28
Male/Female: 4/1
Ethnicity: Asian 4/ European American 1
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A: The whole marketing campaign is going against what people should stand for.
B: I might conclude that the recession has caused desperation in the retail world and this is merely an act of survival through marketing trying to seize a possible opportunity. Most ads these days are focused on these “recession specials” and how the competitive product is overpriced, it’s possible (although we’ll never know) that JCrew is taking a high road instead of throwing low blows against their competitors.
Yeah, being too PC is not fun either.. and actually some ppl take offense to it.. and where would the line begin/end? I would have to be offended at things like Oprah Winfrey going to Obama’s acceptance speech and not Bush’s? Hah.
One last bit from me.. when Obama won the election lots of black people were saying he’ll be the best president ever, because he’s black… Take it for what it’s worth.. seems the logic was a bit backwards, especially for what they were trying to accomplish?
When I say the logic was backwards, I mean.. for a group of ppl fighting for equality amongst men, they should have just ended the sentence at, “he’ll be the best president ever”
Yeah I don’t think it’s worth taking offense to, most likely there’s some guy sitting in some corner looking at the competitors product and thinking.. how can I sell JCrew’s Cardigan, and in a really narrow translation of his thoughts he comes up with, “These cardigans are not equal!” and he’s right.. they aren’t.. and honestly, all men are not created equal, it’s a great ideal to have, but the reality is that we are not all equal, we have unique talents, genetics, ideals and predispositions.. do we deserve equal rights and freedoms? YES of course we do, but genetics and social status will dictate some basic equality.. I realize I’m coming from white america on this, but I actually do take notice on these things.. about 6 years ago I was asking why the pictures at the gap didn’t show mixed couples, and why the models in abercrombie and other storefronts were always white… I think it’s great to cover the entire population, but for a store they’re just going on what’s fashionable or what they know to be money makers… and since consumers buy it up it reinforces their sales models. One look in malaysia will show that the asian ppl there love the white culture and eat it up.. they change their hair just to look more western.. and stores in turn profit and keep on doing what they’re doing..
Anyway your beef is with white culture I think… I think your view is that we are not being sensitive to the racial differences.. and there are definitely naive biggots who make me not proud of sharing the same skin, but I think more than anything else there are these campaigns in place to try to get ppl to think beyond racial differences that it manifests itself into ppl pretending and trying to act like there are no differences… Becoming too PC is not the solution.. embracing the differences I think is.. All I can say is it’s tough to embrace other cultures when they aren’t embracing yours…
What better fitting day for this quote…
Men often hate each other because they fear each other; they fear each other because they don’t know each other; they don’t know each other because they can not communicate; they can not communicate because they are separated.
MLK
C: Advertisers will always capitalize on the hottest topics. You take it the way you want to, but it’s all about giving the average person hope so they don’t kill themselves. Abercrombie & Fitch is known to hire attractive white employees and put the less attractive in the back or during the weekdays….so what? If you believe it is wrong, then don’t shop there. Maybe you’re just reading too much into someone trying to be clever with a subject heading. Maybe you hit it right on the nose. Does it change anything either way? I like to take the viewpoint that the copywriter that wrote the subject line was just trying to be witty and you’re thinking way too much into it. Fact is, the job of a subject line is to get you to open an email. You did. It did its job.
I think [B] definitely just said it best. Being too PC is not the way to live. You find yourself worrying too much about a person’s color and what you’re supposed to or not supposed to say.
I personally think there is a fine line in being PC and being a racist. The two are flip sides of the same coin. Racists emphasize the differences in race. People who are being too PC also emphasize their differences.
To add onto what [B] was saying earlier, I’ve been watching NY1 this morning and everyone keeps using the phrase “historical event” and I must say that it is rather annoying. They interviewed some kids in Harlem and they said “First black President? Hell yeah.” They said the Presidential race had nothing to do with race, but obviously now that the battle is won, people can’t stop concentrating on it.
What to take away from all this? Race will always be around, it is a part of being human. And as long as they will be race, there will be racists. While I agree with [B] in that it is ass backwards for the Blacks to talk about how great Obama will be because he’s Black; I also understand that they’re proud. I mean, if there was ever a Chinese President, I’m sure that we will feel similar.
I would think that you growing up in NYC would desensitize you to all this. This is real life, not some philosophy class bubble where you can theoretically analyze everything. If you read so much into every simple thing, it’s going to drive you crazy. It was a simple subject line, get over it. People will always think what they want to and you have no control over it.
D: It looks like JCrew is taking the law of humans and applying it to their brand, which is inherently not human. There also seems to be desperation in all industries and countries from what I gather. I think it would matter to quite a few that if Obama was green and wore a G-string around the oval office. One step at a time. Nearly all people/corporations want to affiliate themselves with Obama. He is the popular President after all. Currently, Obama sells in every which way. In reference to Lobbyists and people of narrow interest, it does indeed look from the outside that there is a significant change going forward with this administration. I think this will be the most transparent and governmental administration going forward, where all people will have their say in how the government should be run.
Most people know this about Obama, he is multi-racial. His father was black his mother is white. Race doesn’t mean anything when it comes down to making intelligent decisions.
He is a very smart guy, all about forward thinking, not about backwards thinking. It is sad that there are people that voted for him because he is black and there are people that didn’t vote for him because he is black.
Him being black is quite significant as he is the first to walk to the end of the path towards presidency. This paves the way for any and all races in the future.
The issue of race is so lame =P
E: It depends on what you mean by “equal.” If you go by the literal definition, then no…we’re not all created equal – neither biologically nor mentally. But, if you mean equal as in we are all born with certain inalienable human rights…then yes, in a way. It’s OK for someone to be different, whether it’s for better or worse than you. We really should be celebrating our differences instead of fighting against them. A Philips head screw driver has just as much “right” as a flathead screw driver to unscrew a screw….but obviously, one of them is better suited for the job. But that doesn’t mean that the other screwdriver is “inferior” or anything.
Companies will market based on what’s “hot” right now. And right now, Obama’s hot. There’s a dude right by the 68th street Lexington line that sells exclusively Obama swag…do you really think he’ll still be selling Obama hats and shirts after the craze?
Take things to the extreme: does it matter if Obama wears a G-string bikini in the oval office? What if he was green instead of black? Would those things matter to you if, despite being a green G-string wearing President, he does an excellent job leading the country?
As for branding the administration, or anything for that matter….think about to that Simpsons episode where Bart wishes that the Simpsons was world famous and rich. The Simpsons began to appear in everything…everyone knew their name…but soon, people started becoming tired of hearing about the Simpsons and started to develop an internal dislike for them. Simpsons overload. Another more recent example…there was a person on a very popular forum that posted some videos and pictures of herself. The people of the forum fell in love with her. People started using her image as signatures and other stuff. It was all good for a while but some people started turning against this person. Some people started to stalk her via IP tracking and other methods. Things got ugly. So the danger of branding Obama….is probably overexposure.
And it mattered to quite a few people that Obama is black and didn’t wear a flag pin. That these items matter to some people wasn’t what I was getting at — it’s why it matters. I just want to know what you’re thinking – are you taking issue with their creative use of “all men are created equal” to say that their clothing line is better than other clothing lines thereby implying that the clients, who are mainly Caucasians, who wear their line of clothing are indirectly better than those who don’t?
It’s definitely OK that you take offense to the ad but perhaps there’s a little bit of misinterpretation on what the ad was trying to get at. The original use of the “all men are created equal” was used in the Declaration of Independence…as a means of going against the traditional monarch “birth right” tradition of rulership, meaning no one is born with more basic human rights than others (ie. created equal) and not to mean that we’re all equal in any other sense…because like Bryan said earlier, we’re really not.
There’s actually nothing wrong with what the ad is saying…because it’s true. JCrew cardigans are created unique (and therefore not equal) from other competiting brand cardigans. It never said it was ‘better’, but probably does imply it — which is kind of the point.
Also, I don’t think it’s the case where the typical Obama supporter was so because it was ‘fashionable’. I think today, more than ever, people are more informed about politics because they don’t want a repeat of the past 8 years and it’s because of being informed that they voted for who they voted for. You making quite a few assumptions to come to the conclusion of people voting for Obama out of peer pressure.